Reptile S800 Hardcore Upgrade Kit (Now up to 62 Files for 3d printing / cutting)

Reptile S800 Hardcore Kit - The Ultimate upgrade for your S800 Sky Shadow. This package includes all the files needed to make your s800 fly more stable at lower & higher speeds, reduce waggle, mount a Gopro Session style HD camera as protected as possible, run larger battery packs and keep your motor and esc cooler!

NOTE: All new designs for the S800 will be added to this package in the future, so will be free to download to anyone that has already purchased it. (All files now in 1 convenient Zip folder) Last Updated 12th Nov '20.

37 Files in the package including:

3D printed nose which holds a GoPro Session 5 / Runcam 5 or other HD Box cam completely encased for piece of mind, it feature a TPU "Spring" behind the GoPro to hold it securely in place and help absorb shock in the event of an impact, an "eject" button on the bottom to remove the GoPro (Which I would suggest holding in place with a blenderm or similar tape hinge) A lid that still allows you to access the record button and display. A "GoPro Bumper" then clips on the front securing the lid and offering additional protection. Other HD box cams may fit, although I do not have one to test, please contact me if you would like dimensions slightly altered to accommodate another camera and I will add it to the files. The nose also features a separate "drawer" for the fpv camera, this allows easy access if you need to change the cam, the drawer simply slides in and bolts in at the rear with 2 M2 screws to the nose. The FPV cam mount is designed for a Runcam Phoenix 2 and is available with a max tilt of 10deg or 20deg. I can very easily alter the FPV cam mount to fit any micro camera, if you would like to use a different camera please just let me know the outer diameter of the lens and the distance from the centre of the mounting holes to the front of the lens and I will add it to the files.

If you choose to do so, you can cut / sand both of the bumps off the bottom of the s800 fuselage and use the protective rails included in the package instead. Ideally printed from TPU and glued on however (due to the colour!) I used PTEG and mounted them with 3M VBH tape for easy replacement if I broke them, however they have stood up to several bad crashes fine and stayed attached - the VBH tape also adds a little chock absorbency!

The Nose itself should be printed in a ridged material such as PLA or PTEG and glued to the fuselage - E6000 works well for this. I would recommend printing the nose piece on it's end, GoPro side down with supports enabled but add a support blocker in the centre and over the rear panel as its not needed there. I used PTEG with 2 perimeters and 15% infill to start, it felt solid but cracked the nose after forgetting to put my CSRF antenna on my TX and failsafed into a rocky mountain side at 80+mph! I have re-printed it in PTEG with 5 perimeters and 15% honeycomb infill and it is extremely strong!

In order to attach the nose, you will need to cut away some of the foam of the fuselage, this is easier to do before you glue the wing together. the printed nose is the width of the widest part of the gap inside the nose piece for the cameras so simply follow those line forward and then cut down straight from the back of the camera space. I also cut out the block of foam that the front carbon spare runs through down to level with the bottom of the battery bay, (Still put the spar in though!) this gave slightly more room for the lipo in the bay area. When gluing the nose in, I highly recommend you print the lid first, position the lid in place and then the nose should fit snuggly against the lid and the foam at the bottom of the fuselage.

The lid has been designed to blend in perfectly with the curves of the fuselage and will provide room for a larger battery (with a velcro strap with the plastic buckle on top of the lipo) I can easily fit: CHNL 1,100mAh 6s lipo, Tattu R-Line 1,800mAh 4s lipo (v1) and a 4s1p 18650 lion pack. The vent gaps on the top of the lid are designed to fit the Carbon Fibre vents that come with the original kit, I have also included stl's in the pack to print your own if you would like some colour! The lid prints easily flat on the print bed with supports, however for a nicer contoured finish it is better to print it on it's side. I think this would be a fairly easy print in PLA with none or minimal supports added, however I found it is a tricky print on it's side with PTEG you will probably need to enable full supports I also found reducing the print speed helped a lot as the bulk of the lid is just 1mm thick to keep weight down and it was distorting slightly printing too quickly. printed with PTEG it has a good amount of flex and does not break easily (I've not managed it yet anyway!). The lid is designed to slot into the nose and then has a latch at the back so no tape is needed to hold it very securely. To fit the latch you need to check the position against the lid on the foam (Make sure it has room to rotate) mark the hole and either drill or melt a hole to glue an M3 Nylon standoff into the foam that you can screw the latch to with an M3 countersunk screw.

The motor ducts / vents are designed to be mounted on knurled 10mm aluminium standoffs, mounting your motor on standoffs to move it further back will mean the prop gets cleaner air flow and improve efficiency, the ducts have kept my F80 1,900kv fairly cool on speed runs on 6s running an APC 6 x 5.5, pulling 65-70amps and over 1,300watts! There is also a file for a ducted ESC cover which I have over my Tekko32 Metal 65A ESC.

I also made larger Elevons from trailing edge 2" Balsa, I have attached a DXF file to use as a template if you wish, I used 2" x 1/2" trailing edge but would recommend 1/4" if you use 1/2" you must sand it down so it does not sit lower than the bottom of the wing. I'm amazed by how well this handles, increasing the elevon size seems to have reduced the stall speed my AUW is around 930 / 940g and it is still pretty stable at 25mph / 25% throttle on my set up. With the tapered elevons it is much smoother exiting rolls and the max roll rate you can achieve is insane! - I would however recommend using the 2nd hole down on your servo horn otherwise I think you would achieve too much throw and induce high speed stalls in extreme manoeuvres.

The centre fins massively improve the tracking of the wing and reduce waggle significantly. The fins should be mounted 2 or 3mm in from the end of the elevons (This also provides plenty of clearance to run a 7" prop), They must be parallel to the fuselage and each other, slight toe in may increase stability with a slight reduction in top speed but I have not tried this as yet. I also cut an angle in the foam from the end of the elevons to the fuselage to increase prop clearance and provide a flat surface to mount LEDS. There are 3 choices of design:

1. Glue on - Has a wider area to allow it to be glued to the wing.

2. Bolt on - This has the advantage that they are easy to swap out should you break one, or would like them to be removable for transport. In order to fit these you will need to put M3 Nylon Hex shaped standoffs in the wing; The fins are designed so that if you hold them in place and make a hole from the underside of the wing perpendicular to the wing (Check from a couple of angles it may look like 90 degrees from one side and be off on another) it will exactly align with the holes on the top, you can check this by using a pin before making a larger hole!. You can either push a sharp object through to start or drill the wing, if you drill the wing use a sharp (New!) wood bit. HSS / masonry bits will likely tear the foam. I then melted the hole slightly larger and pushed the hex shaped standoff in while the edges of the foam were still molten (put a screw in so you can pull it out again) then glued them in with UHU Por glue. when screwing the wing on use countersunk screws and try to screw evenly from each side to ensure you don't tear the standoff out of the foam, you can tighten them down pretty firm so they are really clamped against the wing.

3. Bolt on: Slots - As above with 5mm long slots instead of holes, Ideal if you want to experiment with adding a bit of toe in on the fins, or if you have slightly misaligned the standoffs this should be enough to compensate.

The Fins / wing tips are designed as frame that allows them to be mounted easily and finish the edges of correx / coroplast. I used 4mm Correx, covered in masking tape to make it easy to mark and then taped the printed fin to it to draw around as a template, I have also included DXF files for the correx in all the fins. I would recommend cutting them with a brand new craft knife and cut 1 - 2mm wide of the line you have drawn as the centre supports in the correx make it tricky to follow a line exactly, I then sanded the edges to fit the frame. For the centre fins I then glued a couple of 3mm Carbon tubes into them with E600 to add stiffness. They were then glued into the frames by running E6000 around the edges and left flat for 24hrs to dry solid before mounting. They are pretty tough and with the correx in the middle the 3d print is pretty durable.

Mini Fins - (not shown in photo, but shown in 3D render) for the top and bottom of the wing designed to fit the profile of the wing 10cm in from the wing tip. Again with the option of glue or screw mount.

Wing tip mounts - Use the mounts to mark the position of the screw holes on the tips of the wings and insert / glue M3 Nylon standoffs for the screws. Glue the wing tip mounts to the end of the wings, (I used UHU POR) insert screws while gluing to ensure they are properly aligned.

Wing Tips - Screw onto the wing tip / wing tip mounts with M3 countersunk screws to allow easy removal / replacement.

Please note: These designs took 100+ hours to design from scratch plus multiple prototype prints, I would therefore be very grateful if you respect my intellectual property. These files are licensed to be used for personal use only. Re-distributing, sharing, altering or selling these files in anyway is prohibited, either in digital of physical form.

You can contact me and follow my latest projects through the Kwadology page on Facebook.

I have a Youtube channel dedicated to tutorial videos and will upload a full s800 build overview video soon, subscribe to "Kwadology" at https://youtu.be/ylpJoG11Pnk

I also have a separate Pilot channel dedicated to flying videos, S800 Hardcore footage will be uploaded soon at "KO FPV" - https://youtu.be/BFjVor3KbZ8

I am also able to provide bespoke design & build services on request, including hydrodipping, custom cut vinyl graphics, laminating and full builds to a very high standard. Please contact me directly to discuss your requirements for a quote. I am based in the UK but can ship worldwide although this will increase shipping costs.

Good luck with your build and Happy flying!